Atop the Rutherford physics building here at McGill is the Anna I. MacPhersonobservatory. Its primary telescope is a 14-inch Celestron telescope in a dome.

This telescope is a high-quality astronomical telescope, though its condition is a little rough. It is almost entirely manually-operated, and allows only visual observing, but can provide nice views of the planets even in downtown Montreal. Star clusters and nebulae may also be interesting targets, though some additional filters would help with that.

Lumicon Sky-Vector encoders were placed on the fork mount's axes for. All 'dome' operations, start-up and shut-down, and object acquisition was manual.

If you are interested in using the telescope, or some other part of the observatory, speak to Saverio Biunno. You will need a key to get into the observatory and card access to the roof.

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Key parts of the telescope

This knob controls opening and closing the dome. It is on the dome itself, next to the panels that open. The motor that drives it should be unplugged any time the dome is moved. If this motor fails while the dome is open, there's a metal bar that can be used to crank the door closed by hand.

This very similar knob controls dome rotation. It is on the pedestal supporting the telescope; it needs to be plugged in before moving the telescope and should be unplugged when finished.

This manual crank raises and lowers the bottom part of the dome opening, if you want to look at low-elevation sources. Turning it counterclockwise opens the panel; closing it activates the very noisy ratchet mechanism.

This box contains the controller and motors; it should be plugged in to get the telescope to track celestial sources. The rightmost switch controls the speed of the fine adjustments.

This box controls the fine adjustment motors. One switch moves the telescope in RA, the other in Dec. The Dec motion only has a range of about fifteen degrees, and is very slow.

This lever couples and uncouples the declination motion from the declination motor. I think the idea is that it should be loosened to recenter the arm the dec motor is connected to, but mechanically it's pretty awkward. It should at least have a wing nut on the back.

This knob, on the opposite side of the fork from the above lever, serves to lock the declination axis.

This small lever/knob, and a partner on the other side, serves to lock the RA axis (but doesn't interfere with the clock drive or fine controls).

This box is the digital setting circle. When calibrated, it can direct you to objects it knows about (which doesn't include the planets) or simply read off RA and Dec. Calibrating it is described below, and needs to be performed every time the box is reset. This box is powered by a 9V battery and has an LED display, so it will run down if left on.

This is the declination (analog) setting circle used in the first step of the calibration process. It is the one on the side with the shaft encoder and drive lever; the one on the other side is loose and reads nonsense. This one is tight but off by four degrees. Unfortunately, the number four appears on the scale in four places, but it's easy enough to tell which one corresponds to declination zero - the telescope is visibly parallel to the base, and the finder scope is on top.

Instructions

Things to remember

• Always unplug the dome opening motor when you have finished opening the dome. Otherwise turning the dome may rip it out of the wall.
• Always turn off and unplug the telescope's clock drive when you're done. Otherwise it will slowly wind up the cables and rip them out.
• Always turn off the digital setting circle when you're done. Otherwise you'll run the battery flat.
• Always unlock the RA and Dec axes before moving them by hand. You can move them by force but it damages the locking mechanisms.
• Always close the dome to keep weather off the telescope.
• Never touch any optical surface with anything but a proper optical cleaning wipe.

Setting up for the night

• Plug the dome opening motor in and use the control to open the dome. Unplug the motor and stow the cord on the platform below the opening so it doesn't get tangled as you rotate the dome.
• Turn the crank counterclockwise (no clicks; may require some force if the Young Hercules has tightened it when it was closed) to open the lower dome door (if you want to look at low-elevation sources; probably not much to see but buildings).
• Remove the telescope's dust cover.
• Plug in the dome rotation motor.
• Plug in the telescope's clock drive and turn it on.
• I recommend bringing a laptop running a sky chart program (e.g. the free Stellarium) to help with navigation; outlets are available, though an internet connection is generally not. (Note that this means you won't be able to access these instructions while there.)
• Turn on the digital setting circle (black box with an LED display labelled 'Lumicon Sky Vector'; here is the manual) and calibrate it:
  1. It should say 'DEC=0'. Move the telescope to declination zero (this will be indicated on the mechanical readout on the side of the fork with the shaft encoder attached) and press 'enter'. Note that the mechanical readout is off by four degrees, so choose the four-degrees position that leaves the telescope parallel to the base with the finder scope on top.
  2. Now find one or two guide stars from its list of bright calibration sources (e.g. Arcturus; don't use Polaris). Line the telescope up accurately on this star, select it from the list on the digital setting circle. It will display a 'warp factor'; if this number is larger than ~3 (ideally it should be less than one) something is badly wrong.
  3. To improve accuracy select another calibration star from the list. This is not strictly necessary but should help.
  4. Switch the digital setting circle to another mode (I recommend RA/Dec readout).
  This calibration needs to be done every time, since the digital setting circle does not have an internal clock.

Looking at an object

• Find where the object ought to be in the sky (RA and Dec; these never change for stars, but planets need to be looked up). This is where a laptop with sky chart software will help.
• Confirm your object is above the horizon. (Not obvious from RA and Dec.)
• Unlock the RA and Dec movements. The Dec movement lock is on the side of one of the fork arms and is a little knob; the lever on the other side is a red herring. The RA movement lock is a knob just above the RA setting circle.
• Turn the telescope manually to the approximate RA and Dec, as indicated on the digital setting circle.
• Turn the dome so the telescope can see out.
• Lock the RA and Dec movements so the telescope doesn't move when you bump it.
• Use the spotter scope and the fine control drive box to center your object in the field of view.
• Put the correct eyepiece (and optionally filters) on the telescope. Eyepieces with shorter focal length give higher magnification (and generally smaller field of view).
• Look through the telescope. You may not see your target; use the hand-held fine adjustment box to point the telescope. There is a switch on the clock drive box that controls the speed, offering fast, slow, and off (center).
• Focus the telescope. use the tape-covered knob next to the eyepiece. When out of focus, stars should look like rings; getting closer to focus should shrink the rings. Be aware that different eyepieces require different focusing.
• Look at your source. The clock drive should keep it fixed in the field of view, but if there is some drift, use the fine adjustment controls.

Shutting down

• Switch off the battery-powered digital setting circle.
• Switch off and unplug the clock drive.
• Close the lower dome door, if you opened it. Don't overtighten the winch.
• Close the dome and unplug the dome opening box.
• Replace the telescope's dust cover.
• Unplug the dome rotation box.
• Pack up and return any eyepieces and filters you borrowed.
• Lock the door.

Troubleshooting

Telescope is hard to move: Undo the RA/Dec locks before trying to move it.

Telescope shakes too much when you touch it: Don't touch the telescope. Use the fine controls box to locate the source.

Jet 4: The database password, when set, is obfuscated with a simple XOR pattern algorithm based on the file creation date/time (stored inside the file) which is then stored in the MDB file header. Jet 3 AND 4: The MDB file header itself is further obfuscated with an XOR pattern – although its a constant XOR stream this time.

Visual field is full of crud: This is a dirty eyepiece. Use a clean one, and see about getting that eyepiece cleaned.

Filter won't screw onto eyepiece: For some reason, some of our eyepieces don't have the standard thread. Use a different eyepiece.

Image appears to jitter, shake, or 'boil', particularly at high magnifications: This is 'bad seeing' produced by motion of the air above Montreal. I'm afraid we're stuck with it, though we should expect it to be worse some nights than others.

RA/Dec are wildly wrong or Dec doesn't change: Check that the cable hasn't fallen out of the connector leading to the digital setting circle. This is a jury-rigged connector designed to pull out without damage the next time someone forgets to turn off the clock drive, but it falls out a little too easily. Just plug it back in and recalibrate the digital setting circle.

Dome won't close: Something is wrong with the motor. Use the long metal bar with a hook on the end to turn the closing mechanism by hand.

Current Condition

The C-14 has suffered from abuse, exposure, and lack of maintenance, but is currently usable. Further repairs would be necessary to bring it back to ideal condition.

• Dome opening control panel is almost ripped off its mounting. This happened because the dome was rotated while the dome opening motor was plugged in. We have added an in-line extension cord so it will simply unplug itself.
• Dome opening mechanism needs to be oiled.
• Dome leaks around the base, so that after a rainstorm there will be a pool of water on the concrete floor. This could be fixed by applying globs of silicone sealant to two visible gaps in the dome.
• Sun filter is missing. The telescope really should have a sun filter, since solar observing is one of the things that can be done well in an urban environment and without keeping students from their beds. Unfortunately this filter seems to have been lent out to someone (claiming to be) from the Canadian Royal Astronomical Society and they never returned it. Available in either white-light or narrowband versions, but expensive as they have to cover the front end of the telescope.
• Astronomical filters are missing. The utility of a telescope in urban environments can be drastically improved by one of a number of astronomical filters. One simply screens out the sodium lines from streetlights and other common narrowband light pollution; others are narrowband filters for viewing nebulae, or colour filters to enhance planetary viewing. All seem to have disappeared.
• Some of the eyepieces are chipped and/or dirty, and some do not have the correct threads to fit the filters. None is of exceptional quality, and unfortunately they are of the old 1.25 inch size rather than the newer 2 inch standard.
• Primary and secondary mirror are very dirty and show what looks like water damage.
• Main mirror collimation should be checked.
• Polar alignment should be checked - may be two degrees off.
• RA worm drive should be adjusted to reduce 'play'.
• There are reports of the dome 'freezing up' in winter.

There is a good astronomy store here in Montreal called the Maison de l'Astronomie, which provides most things we need at reasonable prices. Purchases recommended:

1. StarGazer Deluxe filter set (variable-density polarizer, four colours, and SkyGlow light pollution filter): $160
2. Lumicon Ultra-High Contrast nebular filter: $109.95
3. Lumicon Narrowband OIII filter: $109.95
4. Solar filter for Celestron C-14 (white): ~$200 (must order)